EGG HARBOR, Wis. — Biking through a canopy of trees on White Cliff Road, I can see glimpses of the waters of Lake Michigan’s Green Bay off to the left, flanked by cottages. I look to the right and see the road is aptly named: Peeking through the trees are white limestone bluffs.
A little farther down the asphalt, a pickup truck is stopped, its driver trying to decide whether the duck standing at the side of the road is going to waddle across or take flight. He flaps away.
At an intersection, bike route signs point me toward Cottage Row, another aptly named road that puts the exclamation point on the notion that this is a resort area. The trees are thick here on both sides of the road, and cottages and full-blown houses nestle among them, giving a real North Woods feel.
For years, Chicagoans and other Midwesterners looking for a nature fix have been flocking to Door County, the northern part of the peninsula that juts into the lake northeast of Green Bay (the city, as opposed to the bay itself).
Most drive here, of course, then drive around to enjoy the sights. But increasingly many of those cars are also carrying bikes, as visitors discover the joys of exploring Door County on two wheels. If you don’t want to haul your own bikes up here, there are bike shops offering rentals ranging from cruisers to hybrids to road bikes.
This is a bike-friendly area, I discovered during four days of riding in mid-July. There’s a wealth of lightly traveled paved roads that skirt the shorelines of both the bay (western) and lake (eastern) and also will take you through rolling woodland and farmland from one side to the other. Heck, even Wisconsin Highways 42 and 57, the most heavily traveled roads here, have substantial paved shoulders that make the occasional foray onto them nonthreatening, at least compared with what I sometimes encounter on the streets of Chicago.
And drivers here seem happy to coexist with cyclists.
I spent three nights in Egg Harbor and two nights in Sister Bay, both on the bay side of the peninsula — and the side, by the way, that’s most hilly. But regardless of where you stay, it’s easy to do day trips and tailor the length of rides. And, as long as you have decent maps, there are enough roads that it’s simple to change your route on the spur of the moment. Just don’t try to rely solely on your smartphone for navigation, particularly if you have AT&T. Service is spotty here.
Though most of the other bicyclists I encountered were singles or couples, on two days I crossed paths with various members of the Joliet Bicycle Club. The group of about 35 was staying at various villages on the peninsula and would divide up each day that week for rides tailored to different ability levels.
“We love the safe roads,” one woman said.
Four day rides in Door County
Following are descriptions of my rides. I found the key to maneuvering around the Door Peninsula was to carry at least a couple of maps, because sometimes there are minor discrepancies. I used maps from area bike shops as well as the Door County Bicycle & Other Silent Sports Maps from Door County Tourism.
Loop from Egg Harbor south toward Sturgeon Bay
Length: 41.6 miles
Elevation gain: 754 feet
Route: Bay Shore Drive (County Road G, which becomes County Road B) south to Bluff Drive, then north to Whitefish Bay Road, east to Nelson Lane, north to Clark Lake Road, east through Whitefish Dunes State Park, north on Cave Point Drive, north on Wisconsin Highway 57 to Jacksonport, west on County Road V, north on County Road T to Egg Harbor.
Highlights: Early stages trace the bayside shoreline, though you’re often as much as a quarter-mile from the water. The charming village of Little Harbor is at the 12-mile mark and gets you right next to the bay. Crossing the peninsula on Whitefish Bay Road, I passed cherry orchards — a Door County industry since the 1800s — and encountered the smell of new-mown hay as a farmer raked a field in preparation for baling. Whitefish Bay State Park, on the lakeside, provided solitude and shade.
Loop from Egg Harbor north toward Fish Creek
Length: 42 miles
Elevation gain: 1,229 feet
Route: North on Wisconsin Highway 42, north on Harbor Heights Road, north on White Cliff Road, east on Juddville Road, north on Wisconsin 42, west on Peninsula Players Road, north on Gibraltar Bluff Road, north on Cottage Row into Fish Creek, east on Main Street, around the perimeter of Peninsula State Park on Shore Road, north on Wisconsin 42 to Ephraim, County Road Q east then south, Sunset Drive west then south, County Road Q west and south to Baileys Harbor, south on Wisconsin 57, west on Bluff Road, south on Red Cherry Road south, west on County Road E and north back to Egg Harbor.
Highlights: A ride north gives glimpses of the water through the trees that provide welcome shade on the way to Fish Creek and Peninsula State Park. Shore Road, naturally, traces the outline of the peninsula, and you can explore on interior roads and some bike trails. Eagle Bluff Lighthouse is a popular stop with nice views of the bay, and on the northeast side is the hardy tramp up the stairs of Eagle Tower. The park has its share of hills, so expect a workout. More farmland and forest as you cut across the peninsula, then down to Baileys Harbor, a good stop for lunch.
Loop from Sister Bay north toward Gills Rock
Length: 30 miles
Elevation gain: 673 feet
Route: Wisconsin 42 north, Beach Road north, Porcupine Bay Road east to Ellison Bay, Wisconsin 42 north, Garrett Bay Road north, Garrett Bay Hill Road east, Cottage Road east, Wisconsin 42 north to Gills Rock, Timberline Road south, County Road NP west, Wisconsin 42 south to Ellison Bay, Mink River Road south, County Road ZZ west, County Road Z west, Old Stage Road south, County Road ZZ west to Sister Bay.
Highlights: A lovely ride through the trees along the shoreline headed north, it’s capped off by a marvelous run down a steep hill into Ellison Bay that will have you exceeding 30 mph if you stay off the brakes. Now if you were headed up that hill, it’d be a different story. Lots of shade north of Ellison Bay and on to Gills Rock, with a steep grade or two to get the heart pumping. A mix of farm fields and trees fills the return loop.
Loop around Washington Island from ferry terminal
Length: 20 miles
Elevation gain: 340 feet
Route: Lobdell Point Road north, Main Road north, Little Lake Road north, retrace Little Lake Road south, Jackson Harbor Road east to Jackson Harbor, retrace Jackson Harbor Road west, Mountain Road south, Town Line road west, Main Road south, Lobdell Point Road south to ferry terminal.
Highlights: On a hot and humid morning, the ferry ride from Northport to Washington Island is a delight. Little Lake, off the north end of Main Road, is a nice spot to rest, and the Jacobsen Museum there offers some historical perspective. Cutting across to Jackson Harbor you’ll find the Maritime Museum, and midway is the Sievers School of Fiber Arts, whose gift shop is full of the work of budding craftspeople who have been coming here for more than 30 years to take classes. Heading south on Mountain Road you can stop to scale the lookout tower.
Bike info
There are a variety of bike shops on the Door Peninsula. I stopped in at these friendly stores for maps and info:
Edge of Park Rentals, 4025 Evergreen Road at the entrance to Peninsula State Park, Fish Creek; 920-868-3344; edgeofpark.com.
Nor Door Sport & Cyclery. Two locations: 4007 State Highway 42, Fish Creek, 920-868-2275, and 60 S. Madison Ave., Sturgeon Bay; 920-818-0803; nordoorsports.com.
If you go
Getting there
Door County is about 245 miles from Chicago via Interstate Highways 94 and 43 and Wisconsin Highway 57.
Lodging
Lots of lodging options available in a variety of price ranges. Check out the Door County Visitor Bureau website below. I sampled:
Country House Resort, 2468 Sunnyside Road, Sister Bay; 800-424-0041; countryhouseresort.com. Nicely done property with 46 rooms and suites on 1,100 feet of private shoreline. My suite had a living room, small kitchen area, bathroom, master bedroom and a loft bedroom and a balcony. Amenities include a heated pool and whirlpool, a nature trail, bikes for guest use, dock and European buffet breakfast. No kids younger than 13 are allowed; dogs are, with prior arrangement. Summer rates for rooms and suites range from $121-$277
Landmark Resort, 4929 Landmark Drive, Egg Harbor; 800-273-7877; thelandmarkresort.com. Condo resort with nearly 300 one-, two- and three-bedroom units on a nicely wooded area on the bay side of the peninsula. My one-bedroom unit had a living room/dining room, kitchen, bathroom and balcony. Among the amenities are three outdoor pools, an indoor pool, fitness center, whirlpools, steam rooms, tennis courts and gas grills. The Carrington Pub & Grill provides a good on-site dining experience. Rates vary according to season and location. During my visit in July, nightly rates for one- to three-bedroom units ranged from $154-$399.
Dining
Among places I ate that I’d definitely go back to:
Fred & Fuzzy’s Waterfront Bar and Grill, 10620 Little Sister Road, Sister Bay; 920-854-6699; fredandfuzzys.com. Fuzzy Sunstrom has been luring crowds to this out-of-the-way location for years with no-nonsense sandwiches, including the always-popular whitefish, along with a beach location that will make any sunset lover smile.
Mission Grille, 10627 N. Bay Shore Drive, Sister Bay; 920-854-9070; missiongrille.com. Fine dining in a casual atmosphere with a menu that won’t disappoint.
Parador, 7829 State Highway 42, Egg Harbor; 920-868-2255; paradorwisconsin.com. Owners Larry and Rebecca Majewski, who have Chicago ties, offer their inventive, very tasty take on Spanish tapas.
Wild Tomato Wood-Fired Pizza and Grille, 4023 State Highway 42, Fish Creek; 920-868-3095; wildtomatopizza.com. Sara and Britton Unkefer brought their culinary talents to Door County, and their wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches and pastas have their fans standing in line for a table.
Washington Island
It takes 30 minutes by the Washington Island Ferry Line to travel between Northport, on the tip of the peninsula, and the island. Schedules vary by season. The ferry can accommodate people, vehicles and bicycles, and rates vary accordingly. When you buy your ticket, you get brochures about the island that include maps. 800-223-2094; wisferry.com
Info
Door County Visitor Bureau, 1015 Green Bay Road, Sturgeon Bay; 800-527-3529; doorcounty.com. There are visitor centers in most major towns.
